Tudor watches opened a new path in 1954, continuing its watchmaking legend. That year, the brand’s first diving watch, the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner (model 7922), was launched. Adhering to the brand’s purpose, this watch has reached the highest standards in terms of durability, reliability, accuracy and water resistance, and the price is moderate, and it was widely welcomed by professionals soon after its launch. This original professional watch has evolved over the next 45 years, further catering to the specific requirements of the brand’s customers, especially diversified divers. The first generation of the Tudor Submariner has successively launched multiple versions, each of which has significantly improved performance. For example, the maximum functional dive depth was initially set to 100 meters, and the model 7924 introduced in 1958 had been increased to 200 meters. During this period, the brand has repeatedly tested to determine the characteristics of the ideal diving watch, and to save it. As a result, each model of the 7900 series has its own characteristics, regardless of whether related functions are retained during the product development process, all of which lay the foundation for the legendary creation of the brand. In fact, the Tudor Submariner’s creative principles and technical specifications have been gradually established since the early 1960s, and the last model 7928 was equipped with an easily recognizable arc-shaped crown shoulder guard.
The second historical era of the Tudor Submariner began in 1969, until the last appearance of the series in the 1999 catalog. Although this model is based on the 7900 series, its development has not stopped. From a technical point of view, the ETA automatic winding movement replaces the existing movement. Aesthetically, the Tudor Submariner debuted in a new look in 1969. To meet the exact needs of diving, this watch is not only equipped with a unique dial, square hour markers, but also hands that collectors call ‘snowflake’. This watch has been in the catalog until 1981. In 1976, the brand introduced a smaller case style.
Tudor Submariner is not only promoted and sold in the mass market, but also gains favor from important army members. The French Navy (MN), the United States Navy (USN) and other military organizations have successively adopted this watch, which fully proves its ruggedness and reliability.
First series: Tudor Submariners series 1954 to 1968
The first Tudor diving watch (model 7922) was introduced in 1954. A few years later, the TUDOR SUBMARINER of the model 7928 made its official debut in the brand’s catalog.
At the same time, Tudor watches are seeking different technical solutions to improve the performance of this diving tool watch. Although the brand did not print promotional information for the first generation of diving watches, it did not hinder sales. Related products were immediately praised after the launch, especially in the naval forces of many major countries.
Although the models 7922, 7923, 7924, and 7925 are all 37 mm and do not have crown guards, each model exhibits different characteristics in accordance with brand research. Model 7922 has a water-resistant depth of 100 meters; model 7923 is equipped with a manual winding movement; model 7924 has a water-resistant depth of 200 meters; model 7925 has all the features of 7924, but the water-resistant depth is only 100 meters. Model 7928 is the last model in the 7900 series. It has a crown guard that protects the winding crown, guarantees a water resistance of 200 meters, and is equipped with an automatic winding movement. Most of the Submariner launched by Tudor have the above characteristics. In the late 1990s, the model 7928 was introduced, which is a collection of experimental results of diving watches for many years.
Tudor OYSTER series SUBMARINER 7923
Model 7923 is the only Tudor Submariner with a manually wound movement. The structure of this diving watch is particularly flat because of this technology. Its screw-down caseback and crown, unique Oyster case design, and domed crystals make the Tudor Oyster Submariner water-resistant to 100 meters.
As this watch is no longer equipped with a self-winding movement, the words ‘ROTOR’ and ‘SELF-WINDING’ engraved on the black lacquered dial at 6 o’clock have been changed to ‘ SUBMARINER ‘and’ SHOCK-RESISTING ‘. The dial is not marked with water resistance, and the hands are also switched to a rod design, which is different from the first generation Submariner models.
Model 7923 is equipped with the ETA 1182 manual winding movement with a swing frequency of 18,000 times per hour. The model 6636 oyster strap comes with rivet links and the Rolex logo. In the example shown here, two round bars replace the more common curved links, connecting the end of the strap and the case.
Second series: Tudor SUBMARINERS series 1969 to 1999
In the late 1960s, Tudor launched a number of Submariner models based on the brand’s best diving watches at that time. The characteristics of each watch were fully revealed in the last model 7928. In fact, two new models-7016 and 7021-appeared in the 1969 product catalog at the same time. Both are equipped with a new automatic movement and a new dial. The new dial has a unique square hour mark, and the collectors call it ‘Snowflake’ indicator. Model 7021 is the first Tudor Submariner watch with calendar function. Later, the brand launched another combination of blue dial and outer ring.
Different models appeared in the middle of the 1970s. One of them, a small diving watch, the Tudor Submariner Princess Date, debuted in the catalog. In the following years, a number of small models such as the Tudor Submariner Prince Oysterdate, Prince Oysterdate Mini-Sub and Princess Oysterdate Lady-Sub were also launched.
In the last years of the Tudor Submariner series, various models still incorporate a number of significant innovative elements, including a highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a concave directional outer ring, and different dial and outer ring designs. In general, from 1969 to 1999, the Tudor Submariner series launched a total of more than 20 different models, the relevant versions are even more numerous, and each section retains the main features of this series.
Tudor OYSTRE PRINCE series SUBMARINER 7016
Two new Tudor Submariner models-7016 and 7021-appeared in the 1969 product catalog, marking the beginning of the brand’s second generation of diving watches. The model 7016 introduced here was produced in 1969 and contains a lot of details. Among them, the most striking are the dial and hands. This watch is paired with clear oversized square hour markers and replaces the original rose logo with a shield that symbolizes solidity and reliability. As for the pointer that collectors call ‘snowflake’, combined with the luminous square design, it makes reading easier. This new dial is not only easy to identify, it has become a major feature of Tudor.
Another major change of model 7016 is to replace the 390 automatic winding movement with the ETA2483 movement. Both of them have a swing frequency of 18,000 times per hour. The line of the watch continues the design of the previous generation and is equipped with a 39 mm Rolex case, which is water-resistant to 200 meters; and a round crown shoulder, a Rolex screw-in crown, and a 60-minute graduated outer ring with two-way rotation, the outer ring It is divided into 5 minutes and the first 15 minutes are in units of one minute; the watch is also equipped with a Rolex Oyster strap with folding links. In addition, the Plexiglas Plexiglas mirror surface is modified from a dome shape to a flat and protruding design.
Military dive watch
If a professional tool is adopted by the relevant organization and the tool is fully utilized in its main activities, this is undoubtedly the best evidence for determining the quality of the tool. Over the years, the French Navy, the US Navy, and other important military organizations around the world have equipped the army elite with Tudor Submariner, and they have been widely praised. They have been repeatedly affirmed in terms of quality and sturdiness, and have gained increasing reputation. In fact, Tudor diving watches used by military organizations are not specially customized or specially developed. The models selected by these agencies can be found in the product catalog. The only difference from a publicly available watch is the engraving of its screw-in caseback. For example, the Tudor Submariner used by the French Navy is engraved with the abbreviation ‘M.N.’ and the last two digits of the year the watch was shipped.
In view of the fact that these watches have often been used in extremely harsh environmental conditions for many years, it is very rare that these watches are still intact. Because these watches are relatively rare, coupled with their own stories and different perspectives on the world, this series of watches has been watched by collectors and is very precious. The following content selects some military Tudor Submariner models for detailed explanation.
Tudor OYSTRE PRINCE series SUBMARINER “MARINE NATIONALE” 9401
Navy divers often use parachute safety straps to make straps, and this model 9401, introduced in 1977, is an example. This material is full of elasticity, it is very comfortable to wear and easy to adjust even when wearing a wetsuit. ‘M.N. 77’ is engraved on the back of this watch.
The straps shown here are not produced by Tudor.