Month: November 2019

Earl Counts A Miracle, The World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch Debuts At The Exhibition

On September 29, 2014, the ‘Horals and Miracles’ Asian High-end Watch Exhibition, which is the annual event of the high-end watch industry, was grandly opened at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Piaget once again displayed its unique masterpiece, Piaget Watchmaking Masters, watchmaking craftsmen and designers work together in the brand’s high-end watchmaking factories and watchmaking workshops to breathe life into this precise and reliable masterpiece. Below, please follow the real pictures of the watch home together. Appreciate it.

  To celebrate the 140th anniversary of Piaget Piaget, the brand specially launched this new Piaget Altiplano 38mm900P ultra-thin watch that rewrites the future of ultra-thin premium watches. The watch design showcases advanced and innovative technology, and is specially named 900P to commemorate Piaget’s first ultra-thin hand-wound movement, 9P, introduced in 1957.

  The 9P movement is only 2 mm thick, successfully establishing Piaget’s position in the ultra-thin watchmaking field. In 1960, Piaget set a new record with the 12P movement, which was only 2.3 mm thick, making it the world’s thinnest automatic winding movement at the time. Since then, the brand has successively refreshed the ultra-thin records of many manual and automatic winding movements, and some are equipped with complex functions. Among them, the best include the world’s thinnest manual winding rectangular tourbillon movement 600P, and among the same type of movement The thinnest automatic winding movement 1208P and so on.

  Outstanding ultra-thin movement tradition
  Piaget’s fine watchmaking workshop will continue its love for slim movements. Of the 35 movements developed and manufactured by the brand, up to 23 are ultra-thin movements, of which 12 have been rewritten in the past few years. The record of ultra-thin movements has become an important part of the brand’s existing watch series.

  Each movement is an outstanding achievement, marking the outstanding craftsmanship of the brand over the years. This exquisite craftsmanship has enabled Piaget to create countless extraordinary watches and continue to expand the limits of craftsmanship and introduce new ones. Piaget’s masterpieces of watches are not only known for their extreme slimness, but also for the purpose of each watch and every decision of the watch factory. These 23 ultra-thin movements have witnessed the brand successfully managing these two challenges. Since the launch date, they have continued to produce and have not overshadowed the aftershocks. Among them, the durable 430P movement is the most widely produced ultra-thin movement in the world. Thin hand-wound movement.

  The perfect integration of the skills of the two integrated watchmaking workshops
  Making ultra-thin movements is a long-lasting test. From the first draft, designers need to remove all unnecessary parts while maintaining the function, aesthetics and durability of the movement. Streamline structure. Only a few watch factories design movements in this way, and only a few of them can independently develop and manufacture movements and cases under the strict supervision of brand designers, and Piaget is one of them. A watchmaking workshop that can reach this initiative. PiagetAltiplano 38mm900P combines the case and the movement design into one, not only has become the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, and with the brand’s two own watchmaking workshops, this initiative has been successfully created: the watchmaking workshop in LaCôteaux Fées specializes in making machines The watchmaking workshop in Plan-les-Ouates is specialized in the production of watch cases. The technology of the two watchmaking workshops is closely combined by PiagetAltiplano 38mm900P into a single case with exposed case components, inside and outside. Naturally designed movement.

  The production process of this ultra-thin masterpiece took a full three years. The master watchmaker, case craftsman and designer cooperated in every stage of research and development, production, adjustment and retouching, which led to the birth of PiagetAltiplano38mm900P. In the process, each of the technical and aesthetic decisions affects each other and the lips and teeth are interdependent. PiagetAltiplano38mm900P’s 145 parts are all reduced to the smallest size. The smallest part is only slightly thicker than the diameter of the hair. Some gears are thinner to only 0.12 mm (the thickness of the classic movement is 0.20 mm). The gap between the parts also needs to be carefully calculated. During the design, the position of each part is delicately arranged, with an accuracy of one hundredth of a millimeter, so that the fixed parts and the moving parts are perfectly joined to ensure that the moving parts can move smoothly, thereby ensuring the machine. The core operates smoothly.

  The mystery of the world’s thinnest mechanical watch
  The mystery of this ultra-thin watch is actually buried in the structure of the case: the case back is also the main plate of the movement, the movement and the case are integrated, and the mechanical parts are directly mounted on the case. Such a complicated structure means that the movement of the movement needs to be turned upside down. The bridge is mounted on the side close to the dial. In order to enhance the aesthetics, the bridge design is exposed. In order to further reduce the space of a few millimeters, Piaget has also compressed the entire movement and the pointer installation system as much as possible, and the thickness is thinner than the balance wheel, so that the hour and minute hands can be displayed eccentrically, implementing the classic design features of the PiagetAltiplano series. The watch also sees the operation of the entire gear set, allowing users to pry into the secrets of such ultra-thin watch masterpieces and high-tech movements. Piaget has developed a floating barrel for this narrow movement, which is suspended on a single bridge on the side of the dial, as opposed to the traditional movement of fixing the barrel to the main splint. The Piaget Altiplano 38mm900P watch is cleverly designed and has a power reserve of up to 48 hours without affecting the performance of the movement.

  Patented technology under application, pushing the limits of reliability
  When the watch is under extreme stress, such as in water, the glass or crystal mirror is slightly deformed. For ordinary watches, this physical phenomenon has little effect, but if the situation occurs on ultra-thin watches, because the space inside the watch is extremely small, the glass may be pressed against the pointer when it is deformed under pressure, resulting in mechanical failure. The core stops working. In order to prevent this problem from appearing on ultra-thin watches, Piaget has devised a revolutionary device (patent pending) that breaks the limit of the reliability of ultra-thin watches. Instead of fixing the hands on the bridge, it fixes them below. , Vacate the space between the minute wheel and the crystal mirror surface, even if the crystal mirror surface is deformed by pressure, it will not directly press on the pointer (because the pointer is installed behind the bridge), it will only press the gear set, which will not affect the machine. Core operating frequency.

  Unmatched retouch
  Piaget insists that while thinning ultra-thin watch parts, it will never sacrifice the accuracy of the watch, nor will it compromise the finish of the watch. PiagetAltiplano 38mm900P was born with this conviction. Even if some of the 145 parts of the watch are hidden inside, the craftsman still carefully polishes and polishes each part, showing the most advanced watchmaking tradition with long-time manual techniques. Ultra-thin watch parts are thin and precise, and the finishing work is more sophisticated than ordinary watch parts.

  At the same time, the case back that also serves as the main splint is polished and sandblasted, and the gears are alternately retouched with solar radiation or annular corrugated matte polishing. The open-cut design sees through the sophisticated mechanical mechanism of the movement. The bridge is treated with chamfering and sun-radiated matte finish. After black coating, it forms an elegant contrast with the white gold case. The rose gold model uses carbon gray mechanical parts, while the same white gold inlaid gem model is set with 78 diamonds on the bezel, which shines brightly. The dedicated power correction system is engraved with the Piaget initial ‘P’ mark, highlighting the brand identity in a harmonious and delicate masterpiece of high-end watches.

  Extraordinary fine jewelry watch
  Piaget has pioneered ultra-thin movements since the early 1960s, and has created countless extraordinary styles over the years, demonstrating the brand’s exquisite fine watchmaking technology and fine jewelry craftsmanship. Watch and jewelry setting is a rigorous craftsmanship. Craftsmen need to overcome many difficulties. The challenge of mounting on ultra-thin watches is even more daunting. The reason is that it is limited by the slim contour and the ultra-thin case. The design allows only extremely small tolerances, while only very limited space is available for gem setting. The Piaget Altiplano 38mm900P jewelry watch, which is only 5.65 mm thick, is set with a total of 4.71 carats of diamonds, setting a new record for the world’s thinnest jewelry watch. 304 diamonds have different cutting effects. The bezel is made of rectangular cut diamonds, the lugs and the front side are set with round diamonds, and the dial is decorated with 33 rectangular cut diamonds. Piaget set diamonds on the bridge screws and gear trains, pushing jewelry watches to another level. Even the folding buckle of the crocodile leather strap can be seen in the delicate gem setting. The overall retouching effect is gorgeous, never neglecting the smallest details, making a magnificent watch exquisite like an artwork.

  The vast Altiplano
  Altiplano is Spanish, which means ‘plateau’. It is located in the middle of the Andes and spans more than 1,500 kilometers. It is one of the highest living areas in the world, with an average altitude of 3,650 meters. The Altiplano area has been blown by strong winds for a long time, the vegetation is sparse, and the horizon is vast. Under the desert plateau, it is a treasure trove of natural resources, burying a lot of mineral resources such as gold, silver and copper. Piaget not only based on Altiplano’s vast landscape, designed a simple and modern high-tech Altiplano series, but also injected another treasure into the watch: mechanically equipped in a simple and modern design, such as the time scale on the eccentric dial with single row and double Lines are alternately displayed, presenting a timeless classic aesthetic in a contemporary way. The case of the new Piaget Altiplano 38mm900P watch is made of 18K gold, with a simple appearance and outstanding internal structure, which makes people love at first sight and even forget that it is the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. PiagetAltiplano 38mm900P has no negative Altiplano name, showing popularity …

  At the same time, the special report team of the Watch House has also rushed to the Hong Kong Watch Fair to bring you the freshest and most intuitive watch information. For more details about the 2014 Hong Kong Watch Fair, please pay attention to our special report page. (Picture / text watch home Li Shuai)


Watch Pointers Are Not Aligned, Is It A Quality Problem?

The hour, minute, and second hands share a common axis. Each day, the hour and minute hands overlap 22 times, and the number of times that the minute and second hands overlap is even greater. For daily use, the overlapping of the pointers has not had much impact, but there are still inconveniences in special areas such as navigation and reference time calibration. So the watchmakers designed a special hand layout, placing the hour hand, minute hand, and second hand on three different axes, and called it ‘Regulator’, which translates to ‘standard hand’ in Chinese. Although clocks with standard needle styles still have overlapping hands, the chances are greatly reduced, and the situation of ‘three needles and one thread’ will not occur. In addition to the standard needle design, this Glashütte has a power reserve display on the left and a large calendar on the right. There is a small hole at the lower end of the 12-hour dial on the front of the dial. When black is displayed, it means night, and white is day. Equipped with a self-produced Cal.58-04 movement, the beauty is that the board design of the astronomical clock is used. The barrel on the left is sanded with a double-layer sunburst to provide a power reserve of 45 hours; the right is a satellite gear transmission structure for the front power reserve display. When winding by hand, the three golden pinions revolve around, like a star, recurring, very beautiful. The traditional German three-quarter splint is used, supplemented by gold sleeves, blue steel screws, and ruby ​​bearings. The balance splint is hand-carved with a pattern, and the gooseneck is fixed by gooseneck trimming. But this Glashütte ‘normative needle’ is more fun than that! Many watch friends will personally ask a question, why are the pointers of bought watches misaligned, is it a quality problem? There are two types of misaligned watch pointers, the first is the ‘hour and minute hands’ The second is the misalignment of the ‘minute and second hands’. The misalignment of the ‘hour and minute hands’ refers to the fact that at that time the hands were on the full-scale scale, and the minute hands were not at the 60-minute position, but were offset from side to side. The reasons for the deviation are: 1. Reserved clearance for gear processing; 2. Error in pointer assembly; 3. Error clearance for gear processing. In order to allow the gear under the pointer to rotate freely back and forth, a gap is reserved during gear processing. Therefore, the ‘hour and minute hands’ cannot overlap 100% completely, and there will be slight errors. According to our national standards for the light industry, the hand was at the full hour scale, and the deviation of the minute hand before and after 5 minutes was qualified, 4 minutes was good, and 3 minutes was excellent. Of course, in the actual purchase, the hand is at the full-point scale, and the smaller the deviation of the minute hand, the better. The ‘minute and second hands’ are not aligned. When the minute hand is at the full scale, the second hand is not at the 60-minute position, but is offset from side to side. The misalignment of the ‘minute and second hands’ is a very normal and almost inevitable condition on mechanical watches. Because although the minute and second hands have a transmission relationship, they are also independent of each other, so even if they are aligned during assembly, as long as the crown is pulled out later to adjust the time, they will shift again. The misalignment of the ‘minute and second hands’ is a natural characteristic of the mechanical watch’s basic structure, not a quality issue of the watch. Many watch friends with obsessive-compulsive disorder encounter such a situation, often buying a watch with a stop-seconds function, and then each time the second hand is stopped at 60 scales, and then check with the standard time, adjust the minute hand, Very troublesome! This Glashütte ‘normative hand’ comes with two very cool functions to help solve the problem of the misalignment of the ‘minute and second hands’! First of all, it has a ‘stop seconds reset’ function. When we pull out the crown, the second hand will not only stop immediately, but also reset to zero at the same time. Secondly, when we pull out the crown and adjust the time, we find that its minutes are not moving slowly, but are beating one by one, so that the second hand is not at the zero scale, and the minute hand is at the half-div position. . In order to realize this structure, this Glashütte is equipped with a special pin-out wheel train. At the same time, the change is that the crown has only one gear. If you need to quickly adjust the display of the large calendar, you can only use the adjustment hole on the side of the case. And when it was manually wound, the feedback was very special and strange. For the first time, I thought the watch was broken. The summary at the end of the article: 1. The ‘hour and minute hands’ are misaligned. At that time, the hands are at the full-scale scale. The deviation of 5 minutes before and after the minute hand is qualified, 4 minutes is good, and 3 minutes is excellent. Of course, in the actual purchase, the hand is at the full-point scale, and the smaller the deviation of the minute hand, the better. 2. The misalignment of the ‘minute and second hands’ is a natural characteristic of the basic structure of a mechanical watch, not a quality problem of the watch. —END —